Back in the saddle

I had an opportunity to pack up our bike frames in Portland and bring them back to Korea with me, so I took advantage of it. We had discussed a variety of options for getting ourselves back in the saddle in Seoul, and after pricing bikes new and used and learning that there really is a dearth of cycles we would consider reasonable for riding in Korea, bringing frames over and having them built as fixies seemed to be the most efficient way to go about it. We were interested in fixed gears because the ultimate goal is to round up others and play a few games of bike polo. First things first.

Sasha brought our frames in to a bike shop that specializes in Seoul fixed gears. He got price quotes for both bikes; we put 50% down and were on our way! Or so we thought. As it turns out, we may have been going about the entire situation in an all too North American way, and our learning curve regarding Korean business culture was about to be put to the test.

We had expected to get our bikes within a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, the bicycle shop experience lasted about 8 weeks from the day Sasha dropped off our frames to the day I picked mine up and paid the difference owed. Interestingly, my frame had been sent to a machine shop to remove an old bottom bracket, and the drill used to do the work left hefty scorch marks, destroying the paint on my Bianchi. Yes, for those of you who know her, she looked as if she was hurting.
I had the shop send the frame to be repainted (while I wasn't surprised that the original BB was rusted in place, they hadn't informed me that they would be machining the bottom bracket out). Conveniently, it was raining on the day I went to the shop and saw the damage. This only helped to emphasize the fact (I think) that the naked frame was unacceptable.

So you'll see the new ride is sheik as can be and I don't think the Bianchi minds the transformation. I miss the gears and the open road, but I'm confident that I'll be prepared to invest in the necessary machine when I'm able to access the open roads again. And with this ride, I just may fit in on the west coast when we return.

Taxi to the Maxi...

I am a public transportation hound, particularly here in Seoul. The subway is straight forward and I've been learning how to catch a bus to get me where I need to go. All the same, I sometimes prefer to grab a taxi. It helps me on the days that I feel like I just can't get away from all of the people, but it poses its own challenges to my spatial intelligence as well as makes me wonder how much entertainment we need in the work place.

While some believe the leading cause of death in South Korea is sudden fan death, the truth of the matter is that deaths involving car accidents are far more common. I have not actual seen evidence of this (for which I am thankful) but the sheer numbers of vehicles on the road at any given time make the point inevitable.

Taxis here drive faster and more chaotically than I have experienced before. To be fair in my judgment, I have never been a regular taxi patron. A few times in Germany, Chicago, and the collectivos in Chile wrap up my global taxi time quite neatly. I have never had to close my eyes in those places.

When I am in a taxi here, I often have to cover my eyes. I never plan on doing this, but it occurs as an involuntary reaction to the things I see around me. Drivers drive too fast for my comfort, so when another vehicle merges in front of us, all I see are visions of broad siding. This has happened at such a basic level that I have literally felt us being broadsided. My nerves jumped and my heart sank. My mind went directly to that place it goes when it knows all anyone can do is wait and see what is meant to come next... and it sometimes threw my hands over my eyes. All in all, the taxis in Seoul have challenged my abilities to put the future and the past aside and to simply exist in the now. Meditation has never come so readily.

Thus far I have adapted quite well, I think. I don't pay as much attention to the traffic around us and I actually enjoy some of the scenery the city offers. What I have come to realize is that ALL of the traffic drives too fast for my comfort, which is good because it ensures fewer accidents. If Portlanders were driving in Seoul, they would surely cause more accidents than Seoulites cause on their own. It is simply a matter of understanding the space around you and respecting the unwritten rules of how things work.

In fact, many taxi drivers are so comfortable maneuvering through their element that they watch their favorite soap operas as they drive. I have seen this in the last few taxis I have been in. The satellite navigation system can be used to help you find your way or it can be used to watch the latest in daytime/prime time love stories. Apparently, I live in a common enough area that the navigation system is not necessary. I, too, am drawn to the screen when scenes grow heated: women scream and men cry. Who could turn away from such raw human emotion?

**The phone rings** The taxi driver picks up--and now we have a taxi driver chatting on the phone, while watching soaps, while driving. Aah, the safety of the back seat. Perhaps I will take the subway next time.

Vacation

We traveled to Maui for a week of relaxation and sunshine and we got just that. The island boasts far more than I would have expected as a first-time Hawaii visiter. Truly, I was assuming the 50th State may be overrated based on the fact that everybody loves it. Well, I love it, too.

A drive to the summit of Haleakala proved the island of Maui to be among the most enchanted places I have ever been. The tropical coast boasts natural colors I have only ever experienced muted expressions of. The eucalyptus of the upcountry is a treat for the eyes and aroma-therapy drive-thru style for the remaining senses. The scrub and the red and black cones in the 'dormant' crater are as equally spectacular to view from the mountain's apex as is the world in every direction. Feast your eyes on some amateur photos and know that they do nothing justice.

Above you can hardly make out the big island, seen from Haleakala. Below is a view of the ocean from a beach of black basalt.


Above: Haleakala's debris--literally a hardened river made up of tons of rock; Below: a view of foliage with the 'Iao Needle in the background at 'Iao Valley State Park


Above: craters, beautiful craters...; Below: Maui's observatory on a day that proved to be followed by a lovely, clear night


Above: sunset; Below: tourists enjoying the beautiful day